xZachTheRipper8's build thread!

xZachTheRipper8

New Member
ualramper- thanks for that link, and muckman sounds good, so it looks like i need to source another crank then. and to do plastigauge do i need bearings in it when i check the clearances? cause i tossed out the old bearings because they were toast
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
Yes you do need bearings to plastigauge. I normally recommend measuring with the original bearings but not if they are damaged. Like I said you just need to order ACLs to get a baseline.

The alternative is to have the shop measure your (new) crank journals and then dial bore guage the main and rod bores. Then you can do some math to figure out what bearing sizes you need or polish a little off the journals. But I still like to plastiguage after to verify actual.
 

UalRamper

New Member
NP ........... those were very helpful to me building my LS/V being that i had the same situation and had to find a new crank as well.

Its one thing when you can use the original markings to determine bearing sizes but once you replace something thats all out the window
 

xZachTheRipper8

New Member
yeah ill probably have the machine shop measure it all, or i can measure it all but id have to invest in dial bore gauge and a micrometer which is expensive unless i hit up harbor freight aha but i need to be on the prowl for a new crank and finding a trusting machine shop now. but for the time being what do you think i should do headwise? go lsv or stay non vtec? im gonna boost either way
 


Muckman

Not a M0derator
A VTEC head is obviously better but its not needed for your power goals. Its up to you if you want to invest the money and complexity for an LS/VTEC.
 

xZachTheRipper8

New Member
i have a friend selling a b16 head and ive done a s*** ton of research on doing the conversion so i know how to do it but idk if i want to spend that money, because one of the things that i read up on doing the conversion is that the recommend doing the main girdle, so i was looking into it and withs like 600 bucks through golden eagle for the pick up tube, the baffle, main studs and the girdle. would that be a big thing to do if i decided to go lsvtec?

edit- also i talked to a machine shop last night, they said it would cost about a grand to resleeve my block with darton dry iron sleeves and then port and polish my head and do a valve job,
 


Muckman

Not a M0derator
Main studs requries a line hone :(

You dont need sleeves for 300-350hp.
You dont even need to P&P the head.
Get new valve guides and a valve job.

You dont need to maximize power in every corner with a turbo, you can just boost more.
 

xZachTheRipper8

New Member
doing arp main studs require a main hone? interesting because im almost postitive this motor i have in my car has arp main studs and head studs. but if i decide to go b16 head all i really need is a valve job? what about the main girdle? is that really needed?
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
The point of main studs is increased clamping force. When you increase clamping force you distort it, hense the line hone.

Im not an LS expert so I dont know what the bottom end is capable of rev wise. Try to seek out other LS builds for examples of what works. I would say you can safely rev maybe 500 ~1,000rpm higher without a girdle. I dont think you need a girdle unless you want to go nuts. Seriously, 300hp doesnt need all this. Boost more, rev lower.

For high mileage heads over 100k the guides wear which leads to valve seals leaking and poor valve seal as the valves wobble. New guides, new seals, valve job. Good as new.
 

xZachTheRipper8

New Member
ok cool, my ls right now is limited to 7000rpm because of the tune it has and i believe they "redline" at 7200. which i mean thats plenty enough for me. but im still undecided as to what i want to do head wise because i have my bc cams already and it would be nice to keep them. but well see what happens. im taking my time with this build because i want it done correctly the first time haha so im definately in no rush to get it done especially since i have a running motor right now
 

xZachTheRipper8

New Member
also i just ordered new amber corner lights for 25 bucks on ebay and then i ordered the nrg # 4 combo package off swapshopracing.com, i got a nrg 2.0 quick release, the nrg hub and an 350mm deep suede nrg steering wheel for 250 bucks
 

xZachTheRipper8

New Member

block i picked up

my work station:)

chase bays ground strap

can anyone tell me what all this mess is for?

another view of it, i think its all for the abs but im not sure

engine bay cleaned up better

sitting at work, getting my amber corner lights in sometime this week hopefully


some of my honda buddies,

the crew



my buddies civic with the mugen front end
 
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