question, LS/VTEC for under $1K?
- Thread starter bvmeade
- Start date
Samurai_Blue
Yolo Whippin'
impossible unless you find a retarded cheap long block or short block and swap it in. but they usually run 1000 for a running long block and then you need a ecu
GSR-TURBO-DC
THE BIG SUPRISE IS NEAR
LOL @ VTECH
Its VTEC and an LS VTEC conversion with parts +Head+ labor is roughly around $700 to $900
BUT i personally think its pointless to do an LS-VTEC, without swapping the PR4 pistons for some JDM \
P72's.
So that it can be done.... yes....
Its VTEC and an LS VTEC conversion with parts +Head+ labor is roughly around $700 to $900
BUT i personally think its pointless to do an LS-VTEC, without swapping the PR4 pistons for some JDM \
P72's.
So that it can be done.... yes....
Samurai_Blue
Yolo Whippin'
900 really?
you need a head
rod bolts
golden eagle kit
labor
tune
wiring
texas has some cheap prices
you need a head
rod bolts
golden eagle kit
labor
tune
wiring
texas has some cheap prices
GSR-TURBO-DC
THE BIG SUPRISE IS NEAR
B16A Head: $450
Tap/Gasket/Sanwhich adapter/oil line/Dowel pins $200
Labor: $200
GSR ECU: $100
I didnt include the tune assuming he wouldnt swap pistons. The compression change on the stock ECU wouldnt be dramatic enough to hurt the motor. I also didnt factor in the Rod Bolts, which the labor it self to get themswapped out would be a preety penny.
So i Stand corrected. :thumbs up
Slightly over $1000 But its a very bullet proof and reliable method.
Tap/Gasket/Sanwhich adapter/oil line/Dowel pins $200
Labor: $200
GSR ECU: $100
I didnt include the tune assuming he wouldnt swap pistons. The compression change on the stock ECU wouldnt be dramatic enough to hurt the motor. I also didnt factor in the Rod Bolts, which the labor it self to get themswapped out would be a preety penny.
So i Stand corrected. :thumbs up
Slightly over $1000 But its a very bullet proof and reliable method.
phatintegra
Banned
$900, I can see it for a basic set up. If you do your own labor with out tune software.
B16 head = $300 (that's how much I got mine for)
ARP head studs = $135
ARP rod bolts = $48
Golden Eagle LS/V conversion kit = $235 or Blackworks LS/V conversion kit = $139
GSR ECU= roughly $100
This is without counting the machine shop.
B16 head = $300 (that's how much I got mine for)
ARP head studs = $135
ARP rod bolts = $48
Golden Eagle LS/V conversion kit = $235 or Blackworks LS/V conversion kit = $139
GSR ECU= roughly $100
This is without counting the machine shop.
Samurai_Blue
Yolo Whippin'
damn its cheap to do that
phatintegra
Banned
Not bad price if you keep it stock LS/V. When you do a fully built LS/V this is where it get pricey. It's cheaper to piece your own turbo kit togather for allot more power.
Samurai_Blue
Yolo Whippin'
i would have done that maybe, but i have my special project now
mirrorimg
Well-Known Member
I always get so frustrated when I see people shoot for the MINIMUM budget. I would never just slap on things like this. You are leaving out so many maintenance items that should be taking care of when the motor is being worked on, plus the cost of what the machine work will be.
If it was ME, this is what I would do.
You dont need rod bolts if you dont plan to rev over the stock LS redline, but that completely negates most of the performance that can be gained from the VTEC head.
For the block: Machine work, parts
probably hot tank it and get the cylinder walls honed AT A MINIMUM!, decked if the surface is not level.
ARP rod bolts
New rod and main bearings, you do not reuse the old ones.
-depending on the wear, the crank may need to be machined.
ARP head studs
Rebuild (rotors and spring, DIY can be found on T-I) or Replace the oil pump (much more expensive)
Cylinder head:
Pressure tested and resurfaced at a MINIMUM
I would also replace the valve seals, and check that the valves are not bent and guides are not excessively worn
Other:
Timing belt
Water pump
Tensioner
-all can be gotten in a timing belt kit (I paid like 60 for my non-oem kit)
I always like to make sure everything is running in top order. Also, should you replace the rod bolts, you will have the whole motor out. Might as well have the flywheel resurfaced at that time (40) and replace the throw-out bearing in the clutch housing, and the flywheel bearing (Whatever its called).
Sure you can get by on the bare minimum, but this is why people never like to buy LS/V's from people who do it themselves, on the cheap.
Do it once, do it right.
If it was ME, this is what I would do.
You dont need rod bolts if you dont plan to rev over the stock LS redline, but that completely negates most of the performance that can be gained from the VTEC head.
For the block: Machine work, parts
probably hot tank it and get the cylinder walls honed AT A MINIMUM!, decked if the surface is not level.
ARP rod bolts
New rod and main bearings, you do not reuse the old ones.
-depending on the wear, the crank may need to be machined.
ARP head studs
Rebuild (rotors and spring, DIY can be found on T-I) or Replace the oil pump (much more expensive)
Cylinder head:
Pressure tested and resurfaced at a MINIMUM
I would also replace the valve seals, and check that the valves are not bent and guides are not excessively worn
Other:
Timing belt
Water pump
Tensioner
-all can be gotten in a timing belt kit (I paid like 60 for my non-oem kit)
I always like to make sure everything is running in top order. Also, should you replace the rod bolts, you will have the whole motor out. Might as well have the flywheel resurfaced at that time (40) and replace the throw-out bearing in the clutch housing, and the flywheel bearing (Whatever its called).
Sure you can get by on the bare minimum, but this is why people never like to buy LS/V's from people who do it themselves, on the cheap.
Do it once, do it right.
Samurai_Blue
Yolo Whippin'
jason is right man do it once or yeah.....
heykosal
Angkorian
Go to Wal-Mart and buy the basic cordless.
mirrorimg
Well-Known Member
It may be more expensive to hook up a wireless setup and pay a monthly wireless bill. I think that would cost more than the vtech digital camera
