I always get so frustrated when I see people shoot for the MINIMUM budget. I would never just slap on things like this. You are leaving out so many maintenance items that should be taking care of when the motor is being worked on, plus the cost of what the machine work will be.
If it was ME, this is what I would do.
You dont need rod bolts if you dont plan to rev over the stock LS redline, but that completely negates most of the performance that can be gained from the VTEC head.
For the block: Machine work, parts
probably hot tank it and get the cylinder walls honed AT A MINIMUM!, decked if the surface is not level.
ARP rod bolts
New rod and main bearings, you do not reuse the old ones.
-depending on the wear, the crank may need to be machined.
ARP head studs
Rebuild (rotors and spring, DIY can be found on T-I) or Replace the oil pump (much more expensive)
Cylinder head:
Pressure tested and resurfaced at a MINIMUM
I would also replace the valve seals, and check that the valves are not bent and guides are not excessively worn
Other:
Timing belt
Water pump
Tensioner
-all can be gotten in a timing belt kit (I paid like 60 for my non-oem kit)
I always like to make sure everything is running in top order. Also, should you replace the rod bolts, you will have the whole motor out. Might as well have the flywheel resurfaced at that time (40) and replace the throw-out bearing in the clutch housing, and the flywheel bearing (Whatever its called).
Sure you can get by on the bare minimum, but this is why people never like to buy LS/V's from people who do it themselves, on the cheap.
Do it once, do it right.