Cams and pistons =\ Need help asap

Aussie

Zoom-Zoom
Actually ITR crank is completly uneccessary, it is the same 87.2mm stroke so it will just drop in as stated but the only benifit is I think it might be slightly lighter and a little better balanced but If you have your gsr crank sent in and balanced it is just as good, I wouldn't get it lightened because you will lose lots of torque and will then have to lighten your flywheel and pulleys and it becomes a pain in the ass, I know I went down that road. If you want the pro series get the stage 1s but I wouldn't go any higher. I don't even know if I would go with them for what your doing, sorry I just think there is a better cam that will get more power with the setup you going for.
 

DarkAngelGSR

*JDM Approved*
Aussie said:
Actually ITR crank is completly uneccessary, it is the same 87.2mm stroke so it will just drop in as stated but the only benifit is I think it might be slightly lighter and a little better balanced but If you have your gsr crank sent in and balanced it is just as good, I wouldn't get it lightened because you will lose lots of torque and will then have to lighten your flywheel and pulleys and it becomes a pain in the ass, I know I went down that road. If you want the pro series get the stage 1s but I wouldn't go any higher. I don't even know if I would go with them for what your doing, sorry I just think there is a better cam that will get more power with the setup you going for.
Click to expand...
What exactly do you think I'm going for? Jw
 

Aussie

Zoom-Zoom
Ok lets see...you want a cam thats going to make the most power at the with the best range with what you have done to your motor. you don't want a cam thats just going to make power 7k and above, for racing yes for driving and using on the street no because it won't be fast it will just have more power above 7k. The pro cams are made for bad fucking motors. That doesn't mean that theres anything wrong with your motor its just the those cams are made to make power on motors that have extensive reshaping of the combustion chambers and serious ports. Now if you were going to send you motor to King and say get there stage 4 head job for 1500 dollars then ok use those cams because then you'll get the power out of them. But your not going to do that, I know I don't have the cash for that. So You want a cam thats going to make the most power out of the air and flow that you can provide it. Duration is good because the more duration the more your valves will stay open but lift is hard on motors because its how much your vavle will open, and the more they open the harder it is on your valvetrain. I have a good idea of what you want, something fun to drive on the street and still spank some ass on the track. But you also want it to last probablly 100k miles and not have to worry about it, these cams are made for racing engines, I don't care that they say street on them, there very hard on motors and yes they will make power but how soon do you want to do a rebuild, also like TegSox said your not going to want to rev above 9k because your motor won't last. Therefore you want something to work in your rev range and still give ample power and I don't think they will do it, but I could be wrong so I'm going to look into it.
 


DarkAngelGSR

*JDM Approved*
Alright. I'm so glad ur back =) lol

Just remembering before, I thought that actually stage 3 port job was better than stage 4? Me and my father talked about it a few times and came to that conclusion or something, idk.

Newho, So you say Pro-1's will be fine? or those are still for the high-rpm car?

Yeah, please do look into it for me,
I'm very grateful for your input on my build and the advice. Thanks to you Tegsox as well.
 

Aussie

Zoom-Zoom
Well I talked to the man, he said go with the Skunk 2 Pro series, they are the shit and there is no better cam on the market, they idle a little rough but get over it. If your just going to run a mild port job go with the stage 1 they make power up to 8200+, they make power past that it's just that thats where they peak at and you'll still make over 200hp with the stock bore and stroke. But if your going to do some bigger head work, and you should have a skunk 2 IM or similar then go with the stage 2s. You just need to make sure you have the air there to make them work, and they will make power up to 8800+. I think I might need to invest in a set now because they are apparently the shit.
 

DarkAngelGSR

*JDM Approved*
Aussie! You're the fucking man! and ur tech is =D

I'm gonna be getting the skunk2 TB and IM in like a month.

I think I may do bigger headwork in a few months.

I wonder... pro1 or pro2
 

Aussie

Zoom-Zoom
DarkAngelGSR said:
Aussie! You're the fucking man! and ur tech is =D

I'm gonna be getting the skunk2 TB and IM in like a month.

I think I may do bigger headwork in a few months.

I wonder... pro1 or pro2
Click to expand...
Fuck it just go with the Pro 2s I would. He said he's been using them alot the biggest thing is just making sure you get it tuned because they need alot of extra fuel below 2000k but from 2000k to 5000k they destroy stock cams, there that much better and above 5k they are exceptional. Just make sure your getting the real ones because he was telling me that blox was making some that were suppossed to be the same as the pro 1s, I guess someone had sold them one of the prototypes but it was a bad design and people couldn't get them to idle right. Thats bad karma for you, kinda funny tho.:lol:
 

DarkAngelGSR

*JDM Approved*
Does the RC 550cc injectors and Skunk2 Composite Fuel Rail with some FPR sound good for fuel system? Also, what about a new Walhbro fuel pump? sp*
 

TegSox

Super Duper Moderator
About the GSR vs. ITR crankshaft, I bit this from TI:
The crankshaft is also made with highly rigid steel, increasing it's fatigue limit 25% over the GS-R's crankshaft. Two additional balancing weights were added to create a fully counter-weighted (8 weight) crankshaft improving high-speed balance by 20%.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top