Search results

well just to clarify do you actually have the JDM headlights? cause if so they already have the yellow capsules in them and any standard h3 bulb would work... or did you want h3 bulbs that are considered jdm cause they're yellow?

the wattage on the head unit doesn't matter... your HU's onboard amplifier is only used when you connect your speakers directly to it... since you're using an amplifier you should be using interconnect cables that carry the signal from the HU to the amplifier. it basically bypasses the onboard...

not without milling the hub down... its a larger diameter

did you want to put the neutral safety switch back? i would suggest you take a look into the helms manual and look at the wiring

you're not milling the big end.

you can tuck the chassis wire harness without removing the engine... the passenger side is the easier part... to get to the wire harness on the driver side you're most likely going to have to remove the dashboard but that is if you're confident enough to do a wire tuck here's some more...

do you have a picture? i assume you mean the vacuum hose has some kind of cap on it... as far as cleaning up the engine bay some people remove the emissions related sensors and solenoids / charcoal canister / you can remove cruise control if you have that / there's many other things it...

only difference as you can see is the intake camshaft buts its not enough to make a huge difference B18A1 (90-91) Camshaft specs: IN: 1.3160 EX: 1.3083 B18A1 (92-93) B18B1 (94-95) Camshaft specs: IN: 1.3274 EX: 1.3083

does it at least crank or no?

no... the CKP sensor rotor on the distributor shaft had a different number of teeth between obd0 and obd1 and even if you did get a hold of an obd0 unit there are specific tolerances between the rotor and the sensor that needs to be precise.

its not mine but its a JL Audio distribution block... model # XB-PDBU-2 they're discontinued but you can still buy them from JL or else where if they still have it in stock its kind of expensive compared to other non-fused distribution blocks but like you said its small and clean but...

get the proper fuse rated for the wire's capacity... http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp 1/0 350amps 2 225amps 4 150amps those are all max of course so anything lower can be used as far as which type i assume you mean ANL vs AGU correct? for your main power wire i would go with ANL...

full body coilovers just mean that they're adjustable height wise... fitment would be exactly the same as a shock/spring combo. you dont need LCAs you just need the front forks from EG/DC of course and that again goes for both setups. subframe brace? im assuming your asking if you want to put...

ditto... cutting the bump stops isnt going to help in this situation.... if anything its just going to allow more suspension travel... bump stops are installed on the shock's shaft to prevent the piston from bottoming out and damaging the shock, only reason why you cut them on lowered cars is...

what i meant was if you're going to use 2 ga wire from the battery to the front where your fuse box is located... the 2ga wire is thick so most likely its not going to fit the fuse box. what most people do in this sense is run a distribution block something similar to this so it would take...

you cant put GSR rods on LS crank due to the journal bearing width.

have you dyno'd the car yet and what output are you at right now and what are you looking to obtain?

2ga should be sufficient, youre most likely going to have to use a distribution block up front though and run 4 or 8ga to the fuse box

to clear things up a bit the stock battery positive cable connects to "T1" in the picture and also the starter. "t102" will connect to the alternator of course. now you didnt mention where the battery was relocated to, so if it is actually in the trunk there should be a fuse in place as close...

put them in a box in your trunk... if you dont want to cut your cargo cover then you're limited with choices... maybe if you want to fab up a box that goes on top of your cargo cover to hold the 6x9... fiberglass something? personally i wouldnt go that far for rear speakers i say just stick with...