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Your going to need the full turbo kit Manifold Waste gate Turbo Downpipe Oil feed and return Intercooler and piping with blow off valve injecters A jumper harnes with a obd1 ecu that's chipped crome would be the cheap way out I use it all the time Get a wide band and a boost gauge and...

thanks for the few positive comments and yea i had it down almost bare cause the dumbass before me fried the dash harness and had everything spliced and diced behind the dash..so that was prob th cause of it..but owell its basicly done everythings hooked up ill get some better pics today maybe

wooow mad haters..

well basicly i luckily got one of the few DB2's left! its a 1992 gs-r and she needed some help so im given her some love..so heres the phases shes goin threw(from new paint to a FULLY tucked and shaved engine bay,turbo setup and a bult ls just for now! and yes i still have my B17A1 i sold it and...

yes sir i missed that..lol

everyone has there own opion on tranny fluid but i buy a bottle of lucas the motor oil one no the trans one! and get 2 bottles of acura tranny fluid and it should be mint..thats what i use and 110% never have any problems

stage 3's should be fine

ls motors are not a interfearence motor..put anew belt and water pump and you should be fine..my friend ripped of 3 water pumps 2 of them was the pully itself from defective shit and never bent a valve..new belt and pump and you should be ok..and like stated get a compression test thats the best...

A1 injecters require a resister box B1's dont they just look alike sir

he was probly refering to H22 injecters there 330cc vs your 240cc..but unless your obd0 then your gonna have to wire a resister box to run them..and then you'll have to much fuel so basicly leave your stock ones alone

knock sensor

its a charcoal canister you can eliminate it.

no it wasnt broken down it came out running he just used the head for ls vtec and he wants 300$ picked up no shipping

check your signal wire on the starter

i think he wanted 300 but it has a brocken knock sensor and no oil pan an no thermostat housing

my friend has a B17A1 block for sale it came out of my old db2 were in mass let me know if your interested..the block only has 90k on it i still have a copy of the title

yea you can grind the hub i know aloooota of people who do it it will be fine..and grind one side of the stud to at the base were the circle is tap it in and put 2 open end wrenchs on the stud put the lug and tighten it so it pulls it into place

just get the crank cut and micro polished...a B16 will work all a B17a1 is a stroked B16..but that would be a waste.so try to salvage the crank if possible

32mm socket for the axle,needle nose plires for carter pins,17mm socket for the tie rod and upper control arm and wishbone,19mm for the rim,3 pound hammer(i DONT use a tie rod fork it just causes damage IMO),10mm for the brake line bolted to the spindle,nice big flathead screw driver or pry bar...

test your starter..take it out rest it on the battery ground then put power fromt he battery to the signal port and power line and see if it comes out and spins then you will know if its any good...gl with it whoops didint fully read just skimmed if that wasnt it i would go with grounds like...