Rebuilding my Type R

CKnight90

New Member
Nick_C78 said:
Gotta plug in different bearings and calculate what the clearances will be and pick which ones fit your clearance goal. ACL are the same as oem green. Also, if you had ACL std before and they cleared then why not use the same...really depends how they wore.
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Not sure what goal I want to be honest. Anyone else? Or you by chance?

Here's my Honda-tech forum post, it does have videos of the bearings.

http://honda-tech.com/acura-integra-type-r-8/b18c5-rebuild-questions-3239036/
 
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Muckman

Not a M0derator
Ah the chicken or the egg mystery with bearings. It really helps to have the old bearings (if they aren't trashed) to get a relative measurement from which allows you to adjust and order new/different size bearings. Easiest/cheapest option is to get ACLs just because they are cheaper and 50% of the time they will get you the clearance you need anyways.
 

CKnight90

New Member
See, im confused. Some say OEM & others say ACL. I think they were ACL before. Engine ran good, but burned oil at high rpms. Benefits of ACL? I read somewhere ACL is more for drag/strip only, and OEM is more for driving around + doing pulls here and there. I guess OEM will handle 9K revs? The head is ready for high revs right now. It'll be driven every other day. Mostly for weekends when I'm really bored or there's the weekend meets around here. Green all around? Can someone directly to a site that has OEM ones and THE ACL ones?
 

Nick_C78

New Member
ACL are basically OEM greens man. Has nothing to do with rpm, racing, street, etc. Clearances matter more than brand of bearings. You'll want decent clearances for street. Probably .0015 on mains 1,2,4 and 5. Main 3 you typically want a little looser, so .0018 would work well. Rods can be the same .0015

Realistically, .0015-.002 clearances will be fine. I am just picky.
 

Aussie

Zoom-Zoom
If you're rebuilding and not having the motor line honed and the cranks and rod journals machined to exact tolerances I don't recommend aftermarket bearings, cause like Nick stated they are usually all green. Therefore you're going to have clearances ranging all over the place. Honda bearings work great, and you can get the exact sizes you need to keep all the clearances as close together an in spec as possible.
 

Nick_C78

New Member
Aussie said:
If you're rebuilding and not having the motor line honed and the cranks and rod journals machined to exact tolerances I don't recommend aftermarket bearings, cause like Nick stated they are usually all green. Therefore you're going to have clearances ranging all over the place. Honda bearings work great, and you can get the exact sizes you need to keep all the clearances as close together an in spec as possible.
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If he had ACL previously, that means previous owner rebuilt it...so who knows what has been done to it.
 

CKnight90

New Member
The previous owner just upgraded the head. The guy before him is a Military guy who can't be contacted at the moment from what the previous owner tells me. The guy who did block work just added B18c pistons, acl bearings, & arp rod studs/bolts. I'm sure he honed the block though of course. So Green all around sounds good? For street & strip when i feel like it once in a while? Everything has been checked, reconditioned, bored, honed, balanced, polished.. ect... By the Machine shop. Its just picking Seals, Gaskets, Oil pump, & bearings. Once that's done I have to ship my car down to where I moved. These pics are from the block and crank. The Crank pics start from the pulley to the flywheel side. The rods have 24 marked on the other sides(not pictured). The dots indicate what cyl they go into right? I'm lost on how to decode them. I found the info in the manual. Not sure if I'm understanding correctly. Anyone able to decode?








 
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Aussie

Zoom-Zoom
Green all around doesn't sound good :roll You don't know what's good until you measure everything. You can't just swap bearings in and HOPE they fit!

Go buy or borrow an ext and int mic, measure, and do the math. Its basic arithmetic, you don't need to be an engineer.
 
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Nick_C78

New Member
A while back I actually ordered 1 pair of yellow main bearings and 1 pair of yellow rod bearings. I use those as my basis for measuring clearances now via plastigage.

You need to determine the bearings man. We can just say "get this and you'll be fine". You have to do math. Main size-journal-bearing thickness=clearance. Orrr you can do main-journal- desired clearance=bearing thickness needed. Theres a list of what thickness the oem bearings are. Plug it in to formula.
 

CKnight90

New Member
So the messurments I got from that pic with the paper won't help? He measured the journals, rods, & crank.

The marks on the block look like BBCAB & on the Crank from Pulley to Flywheel 3, 3, 3, 4. Rods have 24 marked on them along with 2, 4, 6, 8 dots.

I guess trying harder to get more info on the block will help? Or again..the Measurements on the picture of the paper won't help?

The reason why I had him measure everything is because he had the tools to do so.
 

Nick_C78

New Member
Why wouldn't the measurements he gave you work? What makes you assume this? We are saying you need to take what he gave you, do math, and figure it out.

Your block has been rebuilt. The oem numbers on the crank, block and rods are pointless because you don't know for sure if any of them have been touched. Prime example is the ARP rod bolts. ARP rod bolts require rods to be resized...making the oem color codes pointless.
 
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