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cheap and boost do not belong in the same sentence. whats cheap is not reliable. what is reliable is not cheap. check tuner toyz i think they have a forged mani kit for like 800 bucks if i recall correctly.

full race is way more $$ than peakboost. Hey aussie did you get my pm? and the difference between the kits is one is top mount and the other is ram horn.

yea E85 allows for a cooler combustion. Your egt's will drop and the amount of boost can go up becuase you will not detonate as easily with it. I'm thinking about it if I end up going K series one day.

350 would be the max to drive daily safely. stock sleeves are prone to failure at the sight of increased pressure and heat. So dont forget to get a catch can/breather setup to relive crankcase pressure and blowby. don't forget to get your arp rod bolts.

a real tuning solution. The kit is fine to statt off with, but for the same price you can get a peakboost kit or something similar to that.

i don't know where you are finding them for 50 bucks but thats not he price for them. The retail at over 100 dollars. And I will upgrade afterwards, These will do the job just fine for some autocrossing and hpde. I've researched them pretty well and no complaints from anyone.

thanks nighthawk. I do have a harness bar from iap that is custom made for the DA. secondly the DA doesn't have a lap belt mounting hole, its on the seat, so I guess I'll be going into the exhaust tunnel and left side floor for the lap belts; and drilling new holes for the harness itself...

I need installation help to make sure I do it right. Anyone? or somewhere to go to see how its done? And by the way I have a harness bar as well if that helps any.

they are fine quality i got the ones with the cam locks. anyone know about installation?

Hey guys, I've been gone for a while but I just started back up I had a kid and between school and everything else I've had no time to play with the teg. Well I ordered some NRG 4pt harnesses and needed advise on installing them. This is on a DA so I'm not sure if even the lap belts will be...

glad i can help

the main relay is in the fuse box in the front i believe its a 40 or 60 amp fuse. its red and big. and it will be labeled MAIN on the cover map. my car still primed when i blew the main once, so its possible.

hey auss, dont use the block girdle, on your app, because of windage, it hinders the motor. i was reading it on h-t. they say using a bigger oil pan (as you are) is all you need and itl free up hp.

check both. timing gun light with timing marks is your friend. just point and match colors

put back the sensor, and give it a go. if it still wont work check your oil level and vtec solenoid, could be dirty

1. check the rotor on the dizzy, it could be in pieces, and thus not generating the spark needed 2. check the main relay fuse 3. check your spark plug gap. if its not gapped correctly it will not burn the fuel. 4. it seriously sounds like timing is off, double check timing 5. base fuel...

i think you should rethink using the skunk2 throttle body. ive heard numerous reports of them getting stuck and not being calibrated (or for that mater being able to be calbrated) properly. so i'd go with an rpm or something else.

into the harness. you gotta get the schematics, or get yourself one of the jumper harnesses, itl have everything you need, and will have the wire for vtec there already

yea any obd1 vtec equipped ecu, it can be ffrom an accord or anything, as long as its obd1, you can chip the ecu and run a stock basemap on there for your application. check out pgmfi.org

either vtec isnt engaging, or your timing is off. pull timming out and do another pull see if it helps, and go from there