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which again.. means nothing, because when you say T3/T4 you are referring to housing type.

Dont companies that rebuikd blocks like Darton, Benson, and GE have a piece of paper that comes with it with all the specifications of the block itself? Bore size, piston size, compression, clearances, etc.? And you couldnt be more right about the 600hp stock block guys not posting up...

You also said everyones afraid of going over 8 on a stock motor. Going over 8psi with your turbo? Or going over 8psi in general?

thats murphys law for you. true that.

Im basing my opinion on your last post which as far as I can tell, had nothing to do with the OP's original question to begin with. My opinion is in building motors in general. It sucks what happened to you and muckman, but thats the cards you were dealt. You still couldnt possibly believe...

You are basing your question on the assumption that a 4k motor is going to take a shit on you. If you build it right, have it tuned right, and drive it within its limits there isnt a reason why the motor should break unless something went catastrophically wrong and murphys law happened at the...

it was directed at havok, and honestly im too lazy to go through someones thread page by page. doesnt bother me if I dont know either.

I dont understand why you refer to PSI when whp and wtq makes more sense. People are afraid to go over 8psi because those people are probably incapable of understanding that 8lbs off a t25 will not yield the same results as 8lbs on a gt35r. With that said.. Its cool that your motor is...

Brand new ball bearing precision with billet wheels for $555? If youre not looking to spend a lot of money on a turbocharger, then I would reconsider the ball bearing aspect. You can get billet wheel turbos from precision for about $900. If you want ball bearing and billet wheels, expect...

what kind of setup do you have and what kind of power does it make?

I would worry more about your b20 sleeves giving out and then the turbo, or both at the same time. Cheaping out = bad idea. Find another motor to boost, and another turbo to use.

Dont go by psi. go by power.

do not cheap out on anything unless you feel like spending time fixing your car or replacing your whole engine. Do it right the first time, even if youre putting together a budget kit. DONT run stock injectors. Dsm injectors at the MINIMUM. Tuners in my area are a big fan of the new...

What brands are these? are those the only parts hes selling? if you plan to turbo your car, why wouldnt you pick up the other stuff you need? read up on some articles, 10lbs, 8lbs, 30lbs, means nothing unless you have specifics on what your turbo flows. Building the bottom end is...

dont waste your time and money. If it was at all efficient and worth it, people wouldve done it by now. stick to single exhaust, 2.5 inches or 3 inch all the way back. A turbo car with a bigger exhaust wont sound the same as a n/a car with the same size exhaust. the sound on a turbo teg...

your first mistake is going by PSI. your second mistake is switching out the stock pistons but keeping the stock rods. the best turbo for you is the turbo that meets your goals which imo, should be what type of driving your car will be doing 90% of the time. id take the time to read up on...

get a different turbo manifold and you wont have to worry about notching your block

LOL making more power than an ITR... if that makes oyu happy

just route it over the valve cover making sure to avoid the timing belt and gears. Dont kink it, and avoid hot pipes, thats about it other than making sure you have the right size, which is -3an.

mine was open to atmosphere too but that didnt cut it unfortunately