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alright, good deal. thats prolly what i will do then. know anyone looking for a stage 3 clutch with a fidanza 9.5lb flywheel? haha. its in a b18a but im pretty sure all b-series will work. also have some skunk2 camber kits for the front. 90-93. and the rest of the car hah. partin it out.

psh, wait till you decide that a 9.5lb flywheel and stage three ceramic dampened clutch would be a nice addition to the car. there is no slip, the clutch is in or out. lmao thats fun. watching 37 year old men who "have been driving manuals all their life" stall your car numerous times before...

agreed, excellent choice.

ok, so my integra is on its last leg and its about done. i found a 99 prelude, h22a, manual. i put a stage 3 zoom clutch in my integra and now its not running. i looked up and found that both clutches run 24 splines and 220mm discs, can i buy a prelude flywheel and bolt my teg clutch to it? i...

holy christ dont use gear oil. i hear good things about the honda manual trans fluid. im pretty sure that 90 weight is way far beyond too heavy.

tunes make more horsepower, even if you are stock. honda tunes the cars for reliability not power. its a good way to make a few more horses.

thus the reason stock cars just about always come with copper radiators.

a copper oem one should work better than an aluminum radiator. aluminum has a heat transfer rate of about 60% so it cools and dissipates heat really fast. copper has a heat transfer rate of 100%. it also has 100% conductivity, thats why we use copper wiring, not aluminum.

you have to let your engine oil cool down before you shut the engine off, it sounds really confusing. but you want the oil to keep flowing through your turbo until it cools down. when you shut it down hot, the oil cokes up and destroys the turbo prematurely. thats prolly what he is talking...

btw, if you have a B18A1 in a 96, someone swapped your engine because your block should be a B18B1

pretty much all of your engine mods will go away if you boost it. only because you will have a different header, intake, exhaust, etc. I am going turbo as well. what brand turbo is it? you can do a ls/vtec as well if you want but its about 1300 bucks for all the parts you need. without a turbo...

oh shit, his wheel fell off hah

ah, good deal. thanks. well, its easy to assume you would need a better gasket for more horsepower. OEM will be my choice then.

i like how people are talking about the added inertia of the heavier flywheels for hills. what about after that inertia isn't helping and the motor is bogging? now you have the hill and the heavy ass flywheel to turn. that makes no sense.

you are complaining about shifting a manual? get an automatic then :)

my car starts making a different sound somewhere close to four grand. it kinda sounds like 2 engines running together at the same time. powerband :D

zoom stage 3 clutch and fidanza 9.5lb flywheel are already in it. as for shafts, i found some online but those will be after i get the motor and turbo running. it should be a pretty solid car after im done with it. its gunna take a few years but it will get there. and my entire head will be...

pretty much, cars are faster with less weight to get turnin before the power gets to the ground. anyone that prefers a heavy flywheel should probably never give any advice on it on this site. telling someone to get a heavier flywheel is like telling them to throw their money away. it does lower...

so runnin 400-450hp on a stock gasket will be ok?

yea but if he boosts it, what are OEM gaskets good for as far as pressures? im in the same situation and wondered because i am building an engine to handle around 23lbs of boost(not all the time, just when im feelin a little rowdy :D). when do the OEM gaskets explode? lol